Day 2: Desaru to Pekan

Distance: <300km
Time taken: 5.5 hours, easy riding, 4 stops
Lesson(s) learnt:
1) trying to write a post in blogger on the iPad is excruciating. Let's see if Blogo works better.
2) when riding, you can smell roadkill some distance away, allowing time for evasive maneuvers. Not so with cow patties near a farm, where everything smells the same.
3) those small, light brown male monkeys have disproportionately large reproductive organs. Why would something that small need such a huge appendage?

So we parted ways at about 9:15 this morning, the Allman Brothers' "Midnight Rider" playing in my head. I was looking to ride through both Sedilis (Kechil and Besar) before joining Route 3 about 50km from Mersing. Easy enough. Leave Sand & Sandals, right at the roundabout towards Tg. Balau, straight at the next roundabout, and keep going. There's one traffic light that you'll get to in Sedili (Kechil, I think). Straight through and keep going til you get to a t-junction that's signposted to turn right to Mersing. Then keep going to the next t-junction, and turn right on Route 3.

Taking this route was the best decision I could've made. I saw less than 20 other vehicles until I got onto Route 3, the roads were good, other than a few patches around villages, lots of gentle curves and gradients. The scenery was breathtaking, especially the stretches along the coast. I saw a hornbill take flight just as I was passing, so close I could see its face. That was the moment I started to truly enjoy the adventure.

When I got closer to Sedili Kechil, I had a Proton Saga Aeroback (the replacement model of the highly successful 1984 Proton Saga, introduced about three years later) with shot suspensions ahead of me who braked well before the bumpy bits of road and gave me ample warning to do the same. I pulled off for a Nescafé tarik just before the only traffic light junction (got served tea instead) to get my bearings then kept going.

My second stop was along Route 3 on a safe stretch of road. My headscarf had bunched up and was causing me a headache, and I needed to pee. I've come to realize that bikers form a loose bond, although I don't yet know if this only applies to the big bikes or everyone on two wheels. Anytime I see a biker in riding gear, there's always some form of acknowledgement; waves or horns as they overtake, nods at a traffic junction, smiles and thumbs up if they're parked up as I ride by. Parked up at the side of the road, my toilet break was interrupted twice as I assured passing bikers that everything was ok with an answering thumb up as they rode by.

Next stop Mersing, for fuel. Left at the roundabout, and as I crossed the bridge I was looking out for a sign to turn off onto J80, which would take me along the Mersing - Endau coast. I didn't see it, and was resigned to trunk road riding the rest of the way when I saw a left turn to Pantai Penyabung. Back on country roads again! Stopped to take this picture at Tanjung Resang beach...

Tanjung Resang beach

then carried on on my merry way through kampungs and farms to Endau.

Word of warning. On the Sedili road and this Endau one, 'ware the livestock. Cows, goats and Mary's little lamb, who's been busy reproducing an entire flock of not-so-white-as-snow offspring. They see you coming and still make a dash for the greener grass on the other side. I was well aware of this as a childhood friend had lost his father in a head-on collision with a buffalo, and since there were no cars behind me, had the luxury to stop and let them sort themselves out. On the whole, more lovely sights; horses grazing in someone's front yard, a flock of sheep trotting down the road, a sign advertising castration services for bulls. Some things made me smile, others made me chuckle.

At Endau it was back onto Route 3 for the last stretch to Pekan. This has always been my favorite stretch of this road, back when I used to drive to Kuantan often. Lots of curves, but good visibility for long stretches. The only blemish on my perfect journey happened when I caught up to a diesel-belching bus and did not have an opportunity to overtake. This is partly because I have a fear of all vehicles with four back wheels; if they're not unraveling their tires and causing serious damage to vehicles behind them, those wheels are picking up large rocks between them and spinning them out like catapults. I have personally had two cracked windshields (small cracks, thankfully) and two damaged bumpers (not small cracks) from these monstrosities.

Thankfully, the Belchmobile pulls off after 10 minutes - with neither indicator nor brake lights - and leaves me feeling dirty, but happy. After that, it was a straight shot to Pekan.

view of the river from the hotel

I'd booked the AnCasa Royale hotel in Pekan while sitting in a coffee shop in Endau (my fourth stop) as I listened to my tailbone tell me to quit while I was ahead. It was the only decent hotel in Pekan with parking, and was at a good price for what it was. 30% off on booking.com for a same-day reservation. Lack of planning does have its benefits.

I am pleasantly surprised, it is a truly lovely hotel. Highly recommended for a stop over. A bit far from the town center, so if you do want to do the tourist thing around historical Pekan (and there are some things worth seeing), you will need transport.

big bikes get rock star parking. sometimes

Now I'll watch the final episode of "Call of Duty", hit the sack, wake up when I wake up, start riding and see where I end up tomorrow. Going to pass through Kuantan and stop in on my mother, who will no doubt give me an earful about acting my age and thinking about the children and not being reckless.

Watch this space.